Italy Trip – Days 44 – 47 – Agrigento

Italy Trip – Days 44 – 47 – Agrigento

We were so sorry to be leaving Ortigia. How could another location in Sicily measure up to the beauty, comfort, and learning we had done in this incredible place. Not only did we want to return, we didn’t want to leave.

But, leave we must.

We packed up our backpacks and food bags and walked across the bridge off the Island of Ortigia to the rental car location. It was another red Panda that would be our vehicle for the rest of our time in Sicily.

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The rental car agent did us a huge favor by telling us to return the car at the airport in Catania because it would be easy to get a bus to take us to the train station. Returning it to the rental car station in Catania would mean an expensive taxi ride to the train station.

The kindness of strangers once again…

The drive wasn’t very long, but we’d had a little trouble connecting with the owner’s son for our next apartment home. We ended up parking at the local train station, and he and his girlfriend were able to find us there. We then followed them through the incredibly twisty-turny roads to our apartment. (More on these roads later.)

I found this beginning to a post I wrote right when we got to the Agrigento apartment, and it captures our excitement in this newest home:

We made the move from Syracusa to Agrigento yesterday. This week finds us in Sicily, which is a part of Italy, though it is often spoken of as if it is its own country. We’ll be on this island until Monday when we board the train to Rome for our last week in Italy.

The drive was a leisurely 3 hours with the children squished in the back of yet another Panda.

Hillier than I expected.
Hillier than I expected.
Lovely views on the drive.
Lovely views on the drive.
Why yes, I would like to sit in your pocket.
Why yes, I would like to sit in your pocket.

We were met at the train station by the son of our host so he and his girlfriend could lead us to the apartment which was up and down a warren of one-way roads. This was the most intense driving I’ve done so far, and I’m glad we are only here for two days, but the apartment is amazing.

We are the very first visitors staying in this completely refurbished home. We’re on the top floors and the bottom is still being redone. (Interesting note to self: Our door to our upstairs apartment is on an entirely different street from the people downstairs. That just occurred to me.)

The alley in front of our door.
The alley in front of our door.
The "intersection" closest to our front door.
The “intersection” closest to our front door.

In part because we are only here two days, this is the location where it feels most likely that we’ll get lost. It’s an absolute labyrinth up in here.

But inside the house is a sheer delight. Here’s the AirBnB posting.

The view  of the entry way.
The view of the entry way.
Looking down on the entry way.
Looking down on the entry way.

We took extra pictures here because there are parts we’d love to emulate.

Living room
Living room
Book case and stairs to the left of the entrance to the living room.
Book case and stairs to the left of the entrance to the living room.
Fireplace
Fireplace
Dining room/Living room
Dining room/Living room
Looking at the bookcase while standing in front of the fire place.
Looking at the bookcase while standing in front of the fire place.
Looking back toward the kitchen. Front entrance hallway and stairs on the right.
Looking back toward the kitchen. Front entrance hallway and stairs on the right.

(Disclosure: I took all these pictures on Buddie’s phone. My glasses were lost sometime around Venice, and I’m realizing all these pictures are blurry because I was holding the phone too close to my face to be able to tell they were blurry. Jeesh, eyes…)

On to more pictures:

Full frontal of the fireplace.
Full frontal of the fireplace.
Gorgeous kitchen
Gorgeous kitchen
Kitchen sink and window
Kitchen sink and window
They stocked the fridge.
They stocked the fridge.

The bottles of water in the fridge alerted us that drinking water from the faucet was not a good option.

We didn’t know what these were at the time:

Peeled Prickly Pear
Peeled Prickly Pear

We were to learn at our next Sicilian home that they were Prickly Pear, and are beloved in Sicily. After we knew what to look for, we saw them everywhere:

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Monkey's bedroom. Dad added for scale.
Monkey’s bedroom. Dad added for scale.
Downstairs bathroom. It was very orange.
Downstairs bathroom. It was very orange.
Upstairs living room. Yessa stuffies enjoyed the crib.
Upstairs living room. Yessa stuffies enjoyed the crib.
Parent bedroom.
Parent bedroom.
Bunk bed for littles.
Bunk bed for littles.
Fantastic master bath.
Fantastic master bath.
Loved the soaking tub and burnt umber tile.
Loved the soaking tub and burnt umber tile.
The view from the upper balcony.
The view from the upper balcony.

This apartment was gorgeous. It was in an ancient (truly) section of town, and the doors we walked past to get here gave testament to that.

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As much as we loved this space, we’ve got to take a minute to discuss the drive to get to this gorgeous apartment.

As I mentioned above, this was the most harrowing driving we’d done. Steep hills, one-way roads, blind corners, and incredibly tight spaces. My heart palpitates thinking about it even now…10 months later.

Here’s a visual to try to explain:

Heart Palpitations
Heart Palpitations

If you click on the picture above to make it larger, you can see there was parking very close to the apartment. That’s where our host led us for our initial unload.

Here’s an example of the streets we drove up to get to the apartment parking spot:

One of the streets we had to drive up.
One of the streets we had to drive up.

Steep, tight, and if you met a car coming down, a battle of wills over who would back up to let the other pass.

So, after we went out for our tour of the Valley of the Temples (More on that shortly.), our tour guide led us to a different place to park. It was a long walk, but it didn’t give me stomach pangs, so it was a win.

Enough of the traumatic driving experience, on to the beauty of Agrigento.

The highlight of this stop was a tour of The Valley Of The Temples.

We had a wonderful tour guide here, yet I cannot remember her name because I only got about an hour with her. Buster and Yessa were done after that time, so we left Buds and Monkey to enjoy the remainder of the tour in peace while we headed back to the car to snuggle in with games and stories.

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Again the magnificent light.
Again the magnificent light.
While we were still all together.
While we were still all together.
Starting the tour.
Starting the tour.
The long road linking the temples.
The long road linking the temples.
The "u" shows where the rope would have been inserted to lift the huge rocks.
The “u” shows where the rope would have been inserted to lift the huge rocks.
Interchangeable statues: Old ruler out, swap out the head for the new ruler.
Interchangeable statues: Old ruler out, swap out the head for the new ruler.

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Buds just said last night, ten months after this trip, that this was the most beautiful sunset he’s seen in his entire life.

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He had brilliantly booked our tour so we’d be at the temples for the sunset, and it was worth it.

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Our walk down to our apartment after we've driven back from our tour.
Our walk down to our apartment after we’ve driven back from our tour.

Buds and I did make time on our last morning to head out on an early morning walk to find a coffee shop and to see some of the other sights.

A church near us that was closed for renovation.
A church near us that was closed for renovation.

This felt like the most rushed of all our stays in Italy, but it was worth the effort.

Upcoming, our final stop in Sicily: An Agriturismo Bed and Breakfast. It keeps getting better!